Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.
The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.
“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.
However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.
It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.
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